South West Coast Path - Exmouth to Sidmouth

A pleasant and not too challenging 16 miles ramble along the South West Coast Path between Exmouth and Salcombe Regis

This route is a great introduction to the South West Coast path with all the amazing panoramas, cliff top views and a few challenging ascents and descents. But nothing too demanding. This walk uses the Salcombe Regis campsite as its base location but the walk can simply be terminated at Sidmouth.

This was the first stage of a 10 day walking expedition along the Jurassic Coast section of the South West Coast Footpath between Exmouth and Poole. It is a great part of this long distance trail and if this is ones first visit then, like us, the lure of the fantastic scenery and amazing paths seduced us back in the following years to continue to walk of the whole SWCP trail.

This particular walk was undertaken on the day of arrival which resulted in limited time to undertake it due to having to arrive on site and pitch the tent. However, performing this during the mid summer provides ample evening light to complete the distance. The arrival at the Salcombe Regis campsite was a revelation in itself. Located at the head of the valley leading down to Salcombe Mouth and with views of the deep blue sea beyond and the sloping hillsides full of small fields of pasture intermingled with woodland. A fantastic view that makes one just want to submerge oneself into the landscape. And it was peaceful. Very quiet with few tourists on the campsite and just a distant sounds of donkeys at the nearby donkey sanctuary. I am sure one could scream here and nobody would hear you, you voice would just melt into this idyllic landscape.

Luck was on our side for this walk. There was a bus operated by Stagecoach which linked Sidford, some 15 minutes walk from the site, with Exmouth and the start of the walk. Unfortunately this 157 service no longer appears to serve Sidford and one must continue down into Sidmouth to catch the same bus.

The South West Coast Path is a naturally start end point at Exmouth with the river Exe forming a natural boundary where a ferry connects to the next stage at Starcross. The trail then continues from the ferry and follows the estuary along the Exmouth seafront. It is easy to find as one just has to head to the beach and start walking, following the esplanade all the way along the edge of town where there are a flight of zig-zagging steps to get to the top of the cliffs for the real walk onward.

This section of coastline is a popular tourist destination and there are numerous holiday camps and caravan parks that dot the cliff tops. Despite this, the area is dominated by open fields and rolling countryside with fantastic coastal views as the path heads up to West Down Beacon at 129m. There is then a steady descent down to the town of Budleigh Salterton and a chance to find refreshment. Cliff Road leads from the beach to the main thoroughfare through town and at the junction is the Feathers Hotel. This was a pure chance discovery as are most of the pubs and inns frequented on this site. This was a good choice as there were four local ales on offer and a welcoming host and a drink to toast the start of what was looking like a grand expedition.

Beyond Budleigh Salterton the path has to head inland to negotiate a route around the Otter Estuary Nature Reserve. This is the River Otter and not an otter nature reserve. I think that if you are an otter enthusiast then you would be sorely disappointed with the distinct lack of the semi-aquatic carnivorous mammals. The path follows a 1.5 mile excursion around the marsh and wetland of the estuary before the trails heads back along the cliffs once again.

There is an amble across to Ladram Bay where one encounters the impressive sandstone sea-stacks, weathered and eroded. The views of these island stacks cant fail to amaze and it is well worth taking some time out to gaze and admire and capture a little essence in a photo The trail descends down to the beach road before making a slow steady ascent of the imposing wood covered hill beyond. The going gets more challenging before the summit is reached. This is High Peak and at 157m is the highest point along this short section of the trail. This climb takes a little effort but is well worth it for the view. The eastern side is a slow descent that takes the coast path into Sidmouth.

On this occasion, it was early evening by the time we reached Sidmouth, sometime around 7pm. The town was busy, not full of tourists but a lot of locals since the FA World Cup was in progress and England's National Team were taking on the lowly Algeria in the evening game. After finding a chip shop to feast on what must be one of the nations favourite meals, it only seemed right that we should endorse our patriotic rite and frequent a hostelry to catch the impending game. Expectations were high that England would show their metal and commanding experience and professionalism and demolish this lowly upstart to the sport. A seafront bar was located that was openly advertising the game. The Marine appeared to be one of those tourist enticing bars that left expectations of lots of fizzy beer and loud-mouthed youth but on entering we was pleasantly surprised. Two cask ales were being served on tap, and a few seats available amid the mild mannered audience. It has to be said that the bar was more like an electrical showroom with the number of TV screens that decorated the walls and I was unsure whether this was specific to this event or whether it was the norm. Unfortunately the game was a complete let down. The 0-0 scoreline said it all with the England layers ambling along like they were on a Sunday walk in the park. Their passing was abysmal and their play unenthusiastic and slow-footed. Having said that the Algerian team must have been delighted with their performance in keeping England contained.

Disappointed with the result we left the pub at 9.30 and photographed a public convenience sign. It said it all. By this time the light had stated to fade and it was going to be a challenge in getting up to the campsite as the route negotiated various pieces of woodland. The first hill of trees to the east of the town heads up to the cliff tops and this soon demonstrated the lack of light. Torches were of assistance but nothing is anywhere near as good as daylight. Nonetheless taking ones time arrival at base camp was completed and the end came to what had been a fantastic day.

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South West Coast Path - Brixham to Kingswear

A 10 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Brixham and Kingswear.

This section is one of the most strenuous walks along the Exmouth to Plymouth section of the Coast Path but offers some spectacular views. There are craggy cliff-face paths as well as gentle wooded zig-zags before it finally meets the lanes that emerge by the railway station at Kingswear. A frequent bus service operates between Brixham and Kingswear to allow the walker to return to the start point.

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South West Coast Path - Starcross to Paignton

A lengthy section along the South West Coast Path taking in the the English Riviera between Starcross and Paignton

From the Exe estuary where the ferry links Exmouth and Starcross, the South West Coast Path heads southwards through the English Riviera Towns of Dawlish, Teignmouth, Torquay and Paignton. This section is a mixture of level walking through towns interspersed with hill walking through Maidencombe, Watcombe and Babbacombe and out to Hope's Nose. There are excellent transport links throughout including the iconic railway that runs along the sea wall from Teignmouth up to Starcross and is as inspiring as the walk itself.

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South West Coast Path - Salcombe Regis to Lyme Regis

A challenging but rewarding 17 miles hike along the South West Coast Path between Salcombe Regis and Lyme Regis

This is an extensive hike that can be split in two at Seaton. The first half has a number of steep descents and climbs as the path negotiates the numerous combes where streams exude to the sea. The second half is a point of no return that navigates through the undercliff to Lyme Regis. There is no way out and this is an extensive hike through the densely vegetated landscape.

17 miles seems like a perfectly decent distance for a day walk. However with the SWCP one has to take into account the landscape and in this specific walk it is a challenge to complete the full distance and one should be an experienced walker to take this on in one go. If there is any uncertainty then it should be broken down into two smaller walks with Seaton as the convenient point to split the walk.

Having stated this the scenery is awesome from start to finish. With base camp at Salcombe Regis, there is a convenient path that takes one down to the coast path on the eastern side of the deep valley that leads to Salcombe Mouth. Despite being half way up the valley side there is still steep climb out to get over the 156m Dunscombe Cliffs. The path then drops right down to beach level at Weston Mouth before climbing back to 162m as it negotiates Weston Cliff. There's more effort required to get around Branscombe, eventually getting back down to beach level at Branscombe Mouth. Once one is up then one has to go down and once one is down one has to go up.

The coast then turns and one drops down into the village Beer. Yes, Beer. What a great name for a village. Whenever anyone enters Beer then it only seems appropriate that one should toast its name with its namesake beverage. The The Anchor Inn provides an ideal opportunity for such a celebration, a well placed hotel that has a garden on the opposite side of the road through the village, overlooking the seafront. A great position, great ale and, as expected, a very popular place for folk similarly toasting the village name. Its all about location and a beer in Beer is the best location in my beerbook.

There a climb over Beer Hill and the path then descends down into Seaton. Now this small town brings back memories when, during the 1980s, I had a week of camping just outside the town. There was one specific pub that was frequented during that week and they brewed their own beer. If I remember correctly each brew had a railway themed name. Starting at the tame Rail Ale it went through to the powerful dark Sleeper. I believe this was the Beer Engine brewery which appears to have relocated to Exeter. On one specific night at this house of repute, the landlord had gone out for the evening, the Chef was drunk and the barman was liberally plying all and sundry with copious amounts of ale, much of it without charge. That evening the Sleeper Ale lived up to its name.

Unfortunately I could not remember the location or the name of this pub and with many more miles to go then a swift drink at the Hook and Parrot was called for before headign otu on the second half of the days expedition. This seafront bar was clearly aimed at the tourist trade although they did have some ale on offer.

It must be stressed that the walk from Seaton to Lyme Regis, although only some 7 miles is nonetheless a challenging hike with no way out other than returning the way one came. This route navigates through the Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliffs Nature Reserve, an area of dropped cliff forming a broad shelf part way down the main cliff. The trail is rough, steps are uneven, paths can be muddy and slippery, as experienced on this expedition despite there being little rainfall in the week leading up to the walk. The whole area is covered in tall trees and dense vegetation that some describe as a jungle. There's not much in challenging climbs but the sheer effort to get through this is demonstrated by the warning signs as one enters the area. In addition one should be aware that Lyme Disease carrying ticks can be encountered in the area and one should take suitable precautions against them.

Having said all this, the trek through the undercliff is an amazing experience and although there are only glimpses of the sea, there is so much more to see and discover. The path undulates around the contours, up and over the various hillocks and around the crags and boulders. Ruined buildings are at the heart of the reserve, the remains of a landslip. Flora, fauna and wildlife abound and one could easily take a full day slowly meandering through this seclude piece of nature.

It has to be admitted that emerging from the undercliff and down into the harbour area of Lyme Regis was a rewarding and satisfying feeling that the distance had been completed. The legs complained. The feet hummed. This endurance was duely rewarded with a pint of Palmers beer to soothe the thirst and revive the muscles as feet were put up on the benches outside the Cobb Arms. It is worth a rest at this busy pub before moving along the beach front to town centre where buses stop for the return journey. And whilst one waits there is always the chance for another pint of Palmers at The Rockpoint Inn although in November 2018 the pub was taken over by the St Austels Brewery so maybe the beers have now changed.

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South West Coast Path - Dartmouth to Torcross

A 9 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Dartmouth and Torcross.

This section of the walk starts at the deep water port of Dartmouth which is famed for where the second and third crusades departed in the 12th century. Across the River Dart is Kingswear, and down the estuary is Dartmouth Castle, built in the 15th Century. Passing the castle, the path heads round the coast and up to the village of Stoke Fleming, then meanders across the hills and lanes either side of the main Dartmouth road until it meets Strete. Here it descends down to Slapton Sands, which despite its name, is a shingle beach on one side and Slapton Ley, a natural freshwater lagoon, on the other. A simple walk with a few hills to negotiate and a bus service that links the two ends of the walk.

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South West Coast Path - Swanage to South Haven Point

This was the ninth stage of 10 days walk along the Jurassic Coast section of the South West Coast Footpath between Exmouth and Poole. Sadly the tenth day would not happen as that was to be the walk through the military range and the bus to the start (Wilts and Dorset Service 40) did not start running until 23rd July :( never mind - another day.

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South West Coast Path - Brixham to Paignton

A 12 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Brixham and Paignton.

There are a few moderately strenuous sections to this walk but nothing too arduous. The walk starts by heading out to Berry Head, the site of a an iron age fort, although most of this has been destroyed by late 18th century fortification for the Napoleonic Wars. The path then descends down into Brixham town where there are refreshment houses and shops set around the harbour. Brixham is much more of a heritage fishing town rather than its commercialized holiday resort neighbours of Paignton and Torquay. Out of Brixham, the path makes its way across the cliffs descending to Broad Sands and Goodrington Sands before reaching Paignton.

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South West Coast Path - Portland Circular walk/Weymouth to Osmington Mills

This was the sixth stage of 10 days walk along the Jurassic Coast section of the South West Coast Footpath between Exmouth and Poole. This was the day of the important England vs Slovenia football match which if England lost would most likely dump them out of the World Cup. The viewing of this game was all planned into the walk, so the morning would be taken up with walking the Portland circuit, then after the game we would walk up to Osmington Mills.

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South West Coast Path - Swanage to South Haven Point

An moderately easy walk to the end of the South West Coast Path at South Haven Point

Old Harry Rocks is the highlight of this walk, and the ascent to Handfast Point, off of which the rocks are located, is the only real effort that has to be expended during the duration of this walk.The rest of the walk is easy all the way through to the end of the South West Coast Path at South Haven Point.

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South West Coast Path - Salcombe to Torcross

A 12.5 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Salcombe and Torcross

This walk begins with taking the ferry across the estuary from Salcombe to Portlemouth. The going at times is strenuous, navigating along the craggy cliff face through to Prawle Point, the most southerly point in Devon. Beyond there are some low lying pastures that is a real pleasure to wander through. The final stage negotiates the craggy cliff around Start Point before slowly descending the cliffs along Start Bay, passing the hamlets of Hallsands and Beesands and finally arriving at Torcross beach.

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South West Coast Path - Plymouth to Yealm Estuary

A walk along the South West Coast Path between Plymouth and the Yealm estuary with an extension along the Erme Plym Trail to get around the River Yealm estuary

Plymouth is not a place to find a country walk, in fact the South West coast Path leads you around some of the more industrial areas of the docks and along the busy road across Laira Bridge. From this point there is a more pleasant alternative route using the West Devon Path which traces the trackbed of a former railway to Hooe Lake. An easy walk around Clovelly Bay and Mount Batten Point finally brings the path onto the cliffs along the coast. The going through to Wembury is not too strenuous and it is worth taking time out at Heybrooke Bay to search out the Eddystone Inn from where you can see the lighthouse of the same name on the horizon. From Wembury the Erme Plym Trail leads back to the main road in order to get around the Avon Estuary.

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South West Coast Path - Yealm Estuary to Avon Estuary

A 19.5 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between the Yealm and Estuaries, using additional footpaths to access transport to link each end of the walk.

There are ferries across both the Avon and the Yealm estuaries but this route takes a trail that enables navigation around them using footpaths and lanes. Even so, there is still the Erme estuary to negotiate midway along the coast. There is no ferry here but it can be waded across one hour either side of low tide. This is quite an experience but requires planning with reference to the tide times published for Devonport. There are few other features apart from the stunning scenery along this section of the coast walk until it gets to Bigbury on Sea where Burgh Island sits just off the coast and hosts the renowned Pilchard Inn. The island can be reached on foot at low tide and at other times the inn makes use of a sea tractor to drive visitors across.

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South West Coast Path - Avon Estuary to Salcombe

A 17 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Churchstow and Salcombe.

This walk heads out from Churchstow through country lanes down to the South West Coast Path at Bantham on the Avon estuary. The Coast Path starts with easy walking along the low cliffs past Thurlestone and includes an 80 yard footbridge across South Milton Ley before it arrives at Hope Cove, a picturesque little fishing village. The section from Bolt Tail to Bolt Head is a little more strenuous with the path tracking up and down the cliffs and around a few craggy sections with steps built out of the stone. At Bolt Head the coast bears round to the north passing Sharp Tor which is cut out of the cliff-face, before it heads down into the pretty village of Salcombe.

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South West Coast Path - Langton Matravers to Swanage

A challenging walk along the South West Coast Path between Langton Matravers to Swanage

Not quite a circular walk, with bus to connect the missing distance between Langton Matravers to Swanage. Some amzing coastline with a memorable climb to the top of St Adhelms Head.

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South West Coast Path - Langton Herring to Weymouth

A 10 mile walk along the South West Coast Path between Langton Herring and Weymouth

An easy walk following Chesil Beach through to Weymouth. The path follows the contours of the land keeping close to the shore. At Weymouth the eastern coastline spreads out eastwards presenting the next challenge.

This section of the South West Coast Path was set around a base camp at the Bagwell touring site at Langton Herring. This site is close to the road into Weymouth providing easy access to public transport and close to the Coast Path with footpaths leading down to the trail just below Langton Herring village. The path follows the waterline of the Fleet, the enclosed waters that sit between the mainland and Chesil Beach, the large shingle Bank that stretches all the way through to Portland, the island at the southern tip of Weymouth.

The path cuts across a small headland known as Herbury and then past Moonfleet Manor House a large 30 room Georgian building used as a hotel and spa. The house is the central location for the namesake novel by J. Mead Faulkner set in times when piracy and smuggling abounded. The name of the house is derived from Maximillion Mohune who built the house, literally Mohunes of Fleet which was corrupted to Moonfleet.

The walk is easy and relaxed with no real challenges, more like an amble in the park rather than a hike along the South West Coast Path. Given a glorious sunny day such as that when this instance of the walk was undertaken, it really is an utter pleasure to wander.

The path on this section ends at Ferry Bridge, the connecting point between the mainland and Portland where a road leads across to the island via the Ferry Bridge. The Ferry Bridge Inn stood here, in a prominent position with views across to Portland and westwards along the Fleet. One would have thought such a position would deem it to be a busy pub but certainly this was not the case on visiting during this walk when we were the only patrons. The pub has since closed and has subsequently been demolished.

The coast path continues with a circular walk around Portland. That is a section left for another walk day and detailed on Portland Circular Walk. For this walk we continue into Weymouth town, following the route of the former Portland Branch Line. The path diverges from the old trackbed at the Nothe Peninsular where a 19th century fort sits at its head. This peninsular forms a natural harbour on its northern side where the River Wey drains into the sea. One one can walk up to the Town Bridge to cross the river, but it is much more fun to take the ferry and witness the numerous sailing craft moored on either side. A fish eye view of the river. Well a sailors eye view anyway. On this expedition the Pelican sailing ship was moored in the harbour. Built in 1948 this tall ship made its living as an arctic trawler before being restored in 2007 and subsequently used as a sail training ship. A magnificent sight.

The town of Weymouth sits on a sheltered bay at the mouth of the River Wey. It was built as a prominent seaport whose trade dates back to medieval times. In these modern times it thrives on tourism and is an unabashed, unashamed English seaside resort with all the connotations that one expects from such. Kiss me quick hats. Ice Cream. Sandy Beaches where holidaymakers soak up the sun. Not the place for the rural aficionado such as myself but nonetheless it still presents that sense of arrival. After walking the coast path from Exmouth, this is the first major town and such civilisation marks an arrival, a completion of a major section. Because Weymouth and Portland jut out into the English Channel the coast eastwards is always hidden from view when walking from the west. From Weymouth a whole new challenge is presented ahead with the coastline stretching around to Lulworth and Kimmeridge and beyond.

There are buses from Weymouth back to the campsite including the Jurassic Coast service which runs past the site entrance. Later buses run through to Chickerell which is a short one mile walk back to the campsite. On this occasion a later bus was caught which did present the unwitting passenger to the less salubrious side of the town where Feral youths stand in the road purposefully forcing the bus to stop with scowls on their faces and abusive words from their mouths and sign language that did not take someone who was proficient in such skills to interpret. It is a sad fact that such reprobates fail to see the beauty that is around them. This coast is a glory with so much to explore yet they appear to restrict themselves to the concrete urbanisation.

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