A circular walk from Sizewell to Thorpeness along the Suffolk Coast Path
In recent years the Suffolk Coast Path has been rerouted in-land from Sizewell across the commons to Thorpeness due to coastal erosion. The old coast route can still be walked when the tide is right and there is always an escape up the cliffs to Thorpeness Common just before the Thorpeness cliffs where the tide cuts off access to the beach.
Leiston to Sizewell Walk - Essential Information
- OS Explorer Map
- OS Explorer 212 - Woodbridge & Saxmundham
- OS Route Map
- Full screen plot of route on an OS map
- OSM Route Map
- Full screen plot of route on an OpenStreetMap map
- Google Route Map
- Full screen plot of route on a Google map
- Map My Walk Map
- Map My Walk plot of route
- GPX file for walk
- Downloadable GPX coordinates of walk
- Date of Walk
- Walk Time
- 10:30 to 16:00
- Griffmonster, Kat
- Weather Conditions
- Fresh autumn day
The power of the weather and the sea never ceases to amaze. This section of coastline between Sizewell and Thorpeness has been fairly stable ever since I first moved down this way back in the late 90's. The coastline is predominantly shingle with some sand which can increase when storms wash the shingle away, although it always returns given time. To the south of Sizewell the sandy cliffs are slowly eroding, probably more from the wind and rain rather than the tides. There are two precarious falls by the footpath along the cliff top in front of the Dower House. This can still be walked but it will probably not be long before the erosion encroaches on the footpath itself which will prevent access along the cliff top.
Further south, the shingle beach broadens as the shoreline turns south-west. This spit was appearing to increase in size over the years I have known it, offering haven to the village of Thorpeness which lays immediately south. However, in recent years a dramatic change has seen the end of the spit being taken by the sea with the cliff top houses being threatened as the sea encroaches onto the cliff. At high tide this is completely impassable and even at low tide, at times, can be difficult to get past.
To protect the houses, the existing cliff defences have been strengthened at a cost of £400,000, partly funded by Suffolk Council and the Environment Agency with a sizable contribution being put up by the householders. The defences involved placing nearly 2,000 fabric bags filled with sand and shingle which have been placed at the base of the cliffs. These were laid eight to ten layers deep on more than one-and-a-half square miles of geo-fabric, creating a 600ft toe-shaped structure to provide support to the existing rock- filled wire basket revetment. The work was completed in December 2011
There is no clear explanation of why this stable part of coastline dramatically changed in recent years although some locals appear to blame the erosion on the dredging that has been carried out just off the coast. Their argument being that the shingle beach has slipped down to fill the excavation caused from the dredging. The British Marine Aggregate Producers Association have denied that this has been the cause but then they cannot be said to be neutral in this affair as it is in their interest to negate any controversy over their business.
Taking the entire coastline between the Blyth and Alde estuaries, it would appear that erosion occurs in unpredictable phases. Many years of stability are then affected by a sea change resulting in significant erosion, the worse case being the disappearance of Dunwich which happened in the 13th century when a storm destroyed this sizable seaport overnight. During more recent years, with tightening budgets, there has been a managed retreat of the existing defences with the shingle bank north of Dunwich being left to the mercy of the sea with recent breaches remaining neglected. Further south at Minsmere a new inner sea wall has been completed allowing the north side of this bird reserve to be breached by the sea.
The worrying aspect of all this erosion is the siting of the new Sizewll C Nuclear Power Station. With the integrity of this section of coastline being compromised by the lack of investment in defences then it seems strange that such a vulnerable construction should be contemplated in being placed here. At a recent public exhibition in Leiston organized by EDF, the power company investing in the construction, I put the question about coastal defence to one of their representatives which was answered along the lines of 'research is still being undertaken as to whether it is needed'. In the Executive Summary of the documentation that was handed out at this exhibition it clearly states:
'We have been monitoring coastal processes in the area surrounding Sizewell C for a number of years. Our studies will help us decide how best to protect Sizewell C while limiting effects on the local environment as far as practicable. The future evolution of the coastline itself and the offshore Sizewell and Dunwich Banks, and the potential long-term interactions between the Minsmere Sluice, local shores and Sizewell C are being considered as part of our studies.'
There is more in depth documentation concerning their policy on coastal erosion in the Environmental Report.
Erosion is a big concern and despite the awareness that has been cited in these documents there does appear to be a certain amount of complacency towards sea defences by both the Government and the Power Companies in their fast track approach to address the lack of power generation in this country. In my opinion I would say that this section of coastline needs defending as an utmost priority and funds should be set aside to keep the integrity of such for the duration of the Power Stations. This not only needs doing if a new Sizewell C is built but also needs addressing in the present as Sizewell B is still in operation with its decommissioning schedule going on well into the next century. It is worrying that EDF are conducting the study of the impact of coastal erosion themselves rather than having an independent body assess such studies. They are naturally a biased party as the cost of any defence work will impact upon their profits. I do remember reading a report prepared by Imperial College with reference to Coastal Erosion on this part of the Suffolk Coast. This was inconclusive as it stated that there was not enough historic data to determine the course of future erosion. Unfortunately I have been unable to locate this report on-line.
There is a lot of concern from local residents after the catastrophe at Fukushima and one of the regular meetings between EDF and the local community had to be adjourned when EDF refused to answer the local residents concerns over this particular aspect. It is true that such events as major earthquakes or tsunamis are highly unlikely in this part of the world but the sea should not be taken for granted as a docile beast that will not turn against our coastline. It has done so in the past and I am certain it will do in the future and adequate funding should be put in place to safeguard our future and the future of those who will be living here in years to come.
Suffolk Coast Path Re-routing
With the Thropeness erosion preventing access along the beach at high tide, the Suffolk Coast Path has been re-routed, taking the public footpath away from the beach at the Dower House to the south of Sizewell, then navigating across Thorpeness Common to emerge into the village on Old Homes Road. This is an enjoyable little walk across the common land that is typical of this area. This route also avoids the crumbling cliffs in front of the Dower House.
It is still possible to walk along the cliffs and beach given the right tide conditions and there is access up the cliffs to the common just before Thorpeness should the tide cut off the route.
A simple walk following the marked out routes across the heaths and commons between Leiston and Thorpeness. A lot of this land is open access which allows the walker to find a myriad of alternative routes
Head out of Leiston on the Aldeburgh Road. Almost opposite Goldings Lane there is a little road on the left. This leads onto a footpath alongside the field boundaries. Keep to this until it bears to the left and joins another footpath at an angle. Almost double back on yourself and walk through to the field adjacent to a copse of trees with a track down the side of this. Cross the field diagonally and keep in a straight line through the golf course beyond until the path meets several other paths at the point of the old railway track. Go through the metal gate and onto the common following the yellow topped marker posts. This emerges through another metal gate onto a sandy track. Cross the track and follow the footpath through he trees until it joins another path. Turn right along this, which is now the re-routed Suffolk Coast Path (due to coastal erosion) and follow the marker posts into Thorpeness.
From Thorpeness, take the beach through to Sizewell. At certain times of tide the beach in front of Thorpeness can be inaccessible and an alternative route is to follow Old Homes Road round to North End Avenue which is marked as a private road. Walk up this, parallel to the beach, and at the end there is a footpath out onto the common with multiple access to the beach and cliff paths.
At Sizewell follow the road, past the Vulcan Arms inland. At Halfway Cottages, as the road bends round to the right, there is a track just past the last cottage. Take this, continue straight ahead past the cottage and turn sharp right to take the path across the fields and onto a track at the far end, past the cottage. This track eventually leads out onto Red House Lane where the walk started.
The Vulcan Arms, Sizewell View in OS Map | View in Google Map
- The Vulcan Arms, Sizewell
The history of this establishment goes back many years. It was recorded as being an alehouse in the census of 1540 but then changed to a blacksmith under Cromwells reforms. Eventually it returned to being a pub in the early 1700's when it took the name of The Vulcan Inn, Vulcan being the Greek god of fire and smithery. It also has a history of smuggling, Sizewell Gap being the haunt of many smuggling operations, including the infamous Hadleigh Gang during the 1700's. Local folklore suggests that there was a tunnel linking the Vulcan cellar to the beach. Unfortunately the original cellar was filled in during WWII. The pub serves Greene King IPA, Abbott and Speckled Hen and has an extensive food menu. Saturday nights it hosts a renowned and well recommended carvery.
A Sunday afternoon at the Vulcan is always a welcome treat. I know I dont particular care for Green King ales but the Abbott here is always recommended and there is always some friendly banter with the host of this historic inn.
Coastal ErosionView in OS Map | View in Google Map
Coastal erosion is the wearing away of land and the removal of beach or dune sediments by wave action, tidal currents, wave currents, or drainage. Waves, generated by storms, wind, or fast moving motor craft, cause coastal erosion, which may take the form of long-term losses of sediment and rocks, or merely the temporary redistribution of coastal sediments; erosion in one location may result in accretion nearby. The study of erosion and sediment redistribution is called 'coastal morphodynamics'.
The Suffolk Coast is composed of soft rock and sand which presents a vulnerable defence against wind and tide. There is a long history of man made defneces along this coast which have kept towns such as Southwold and Felixstowe safe from the sea although not all have had such a happy history. Dunwich was once a thriving port, one of the largest in East Anglia before it succombed to the sea. Slaughden, at the southern side of Aldebuurgh has vanished into the sea and what remains of Aldeburgh was at one time the centre of the community.
Links and Bibliography:
Below is the route depicted on the OpenStreetMap, Ordnance Survey Map and Google Map. Links to full page versions are found in the Essential Information
Summary of Document Changes
Last Updated: ... 2016-01-16